You are almost certainly in Reims for one thing, and that thing has bubbles. As the unofficial capital of the Champagne Region, Reims lures in tourists and locals alike with its stately champagne houses and hectares upon hectares of neat rows of vineyards growing the next vintage for Moet and Chandon, Veuve Clicquot or Perrier Jouet.
What most might not realize though, is that Reims has been at the center of much of France’s most important moments. Additionally, during WWI, Reims sustained enormous damage and in WWII would eventually be the site of the signing of the peace treaty that ended that war. If you know me you know I love champagne, but in between sips, let’s take a moment to appreciate the rich history of the town with a stroll around to some of these monuments and sites, one of which literary dates to ancient times.
On this DIY Walking Tour of Reims we will take you in historical (chronological) order but certainly, rearrange the stops as it suits your day. Maybe you’re more into the history of the Romans in Reims, or perhaps WWII really interested you. There is something for almost any history buff (or just your friend who really doesn’t care about Chardonnay vs. Munier grapes) in Reims so let’s get going.
Porte de Mars (3rd Century AD)
We begin our day going all the way back to the third century AD when the area that would be known as Reims first became a major player in the world’s stage. Porte de Mars is an ancient triumphal arch built after the Romans brought major roads to Reims. Named for a nearby temple of Mars, the Porte de Mars was 13 meters high and 32 meters long, making it the widest arch in the Roman world.
Originally, the arch was surrounded by various other buildings and in 1817 those buildings were removed, giving us the structure we see today. If you are especially interested in monuments of this era, be sure to stop by The Cryptoporticus, which is another well-preserved third-century relic found closer to the cathedral.
Notre Dame de Reims (Reims Cathedral, 5th Century AD)
Moving along in time to about the 5th century, our walking tour brings us to Notre Dame de Reims (Our Lady of Reims), more commonly called Reims Cathedral. While the building you see today was completed in the 15th century, the original house of worship was thought to have been founded in the 5th century by Bishop Saint Nicasius, the patron saint of smallpox victims. Reims Cathedral has seen literally centuries of history of France and the town of Reims. It is most famous for being the location of the coronation of French kings. King Clovis was converted to catholicism here and would become the first king of the Franks, uniting the Frankish tribes under one ruler.
During The Hundred Year’s War, both Reims and its cathedral were under siege. Joan of Arc helped to lead the March to Reims, liberating the cathedral which then allowed Charles VII of France to be crowned king. Don’t miss the powerful statue of Joan of Arc atop her warhorse, which sits in the shadows of the cathedral she helped free.
The cathedral would see many more centuries of war throughout its lifetime. During WWI the cathedral became a hospital, with thousands of hay bales covering the floor to house the wounded. The cathedral, as well as the city as a whole, was almost completely devastated by bombardments during World War I. It would again sustain further damage when WWII arrived in France.
One of our favorite things about the cathedral is the collection of enormous stained glass windows. A few of the original windows have survived but the newer ones are perhaps even more interesting. Many of them depict the history of Reims and its tradition of wine-making. The detail and story-telling are truly impressive and cannot be missed on your day about town.
Today, the cathedral is a beautiful, and peaceful, center point of the city of Reims. Events of all kinds are held in and around the building every year. If you’re looking for a great spot to stop for a sip of champagne, just next to the church is Terroir des Rois, a wonderful wine shop selling champagne by the glass. If a picnic is on your itinerary, walk around back to Square Henri Deneux, which is a lovely green space perfect for a snack al fresco.
Palace of Tau (12th Century AD)
Just adjacent to Notre Dame de Reims is the Palace of Tau. Named for its T-shape (greek “tau”), the bishop’s palace was historically used to house the kings of France prior to their coronation in the cathedral. They would be dressed and prepared for the ceremonies in the palace before heading over to the cathedral for the coronation pomp.
Today the palace houses a great museum with artifacts pertaining to the cathedral and the coronations that occurred there as well as treasures from the history of the champagne region.
Tickets to visit the exhibit are 8€ for adults. (Under 18 are free as well as any disabled person plus one accompanying person – love to see it)
Musée de la Reddition (Lycee Roosevelt School, 1945)
Our next stop is a very unassuming school building, known today as Lycee Roosevelt. In 1945 it was known as le College Moderne et Technique de Reims and would become one of the most important landmarks of the second world war. On May 7th, 1945 in the very early morning hours, the treaty that ended World War II would be signed in a room on the second floor of the school.
At the time, the building was the operational headquarters of SHAEF, the Supreme Headquarters of the Allied Expeditionary Force, led by General Eisenhower. After Adolf Hitler’s suicide on April 30, command fell to Admiral Karl Donitz. Donitz would accompany Generaloberst Alfred Jodl, commander of the Wehrmacht to the signing, ending the war.
Today there is a modest museum, Musée de la Reddition, attached to the school building. You can view dozens of artifacts from the war as well as stand in the treaty room, which was left completely untouched after the signing. It makes for a relatively quick stop and we really enjoyed our visit.
Admission to the museum is 5€, with discounts for those under 18 and over 65 years of age. As with the palace, admission is free for persons with disabilities and an accompanying person.
Carnegie Library of Reims (Bibliothèque Carnegie de Reims)
Our last stop of today’s walking tour brings us back around near the cathedral and the city center. As we have covered in today’s history walk, Reims sustained major damage during WWI. After the war, prominent American philanthropist and industrialist, Andrew Carnegie founded the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace. That endowment selected three “front line” cities in Europe that were especially hard hit during the war for gifts to build, or rebuild, beautiful new libraries. Reims was selected as the “front line” city of France and the new library was completed in 1927.
The Carnegie Library of Reims is a lovely Art Deco building that is worth even just a quick stroll-by, although if you have the time be sure to check out the inside as well. The architecture is truly beautiful and the building serves as a great reminder of our capacity to rebuild after tragedy.
Entrance to the library is free although they do offer guided tours for a charge.
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What historical sites would you add to our DIY Walking Tour of Reims? Which stop was most interesting to you? I hope this post was helpful in planning your next trip to France. If you enjoyed this content and want to support us in creating more like it, consider subscribing to our YouTube channel.
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