I can hear it now… classic accordion music plays gently in the distance, you stroll through a garden hand-in-hand with your sweetheart. It’s a picnic in Paris, what could be more romantic? For me, it’s pasta and wine in Italy followed by a stroll around town but that’s not what we’re here for today.
Paris seems to be this enormous metropolitan place where only a few have the secret key to unlock that ideal Parisian experience. How is it that some people know just the right spot or cafe and I end up sweaty and frustrated walking around town in throngs of tourists? Much like London or NYC, cities as big and diverse as Paris take some insider knowledge to truly understand them and experience the essence of the city.
Our most recent visit to Paris was a brief one coming back from the champagne region. We had one full day in town and since we had already seen the sights on our honeymoon years before I wanted but one thing – a picnic in Paris! In doing a little research we were able to put together a very successful day of lounging in a beautiful place munching on delicious french specialties. So put on your best sundress and grab your favorite person, it’s time to pique-nique.
WHERE to Picnic in Paris – Best Parks and Gardens
Where to set up your perfect day out can seem like the most difficult part of planning. Paris is literally world-famous for its parks, with over 400 to choose from. Luckily we can narrow it down with a few criteria for the best picnic environment. First, it has to be large enough to find a good place to spread out. Next, it needs to have some sort of special feature or view. A body of water, a fountain, a city view – any of these will do. Lastly, it needs to not be completely overwhelmed by tourists.
As a tourist, aren’t we always trying to pretend like we’re not a tourist? Like, we’re cooler than that. Let me tell you from experience, French people (and maybe Germans, too) can smell an outsider a kilometer away. We smell like poor fashion sense and processed cheese product. I kid, but at least with some of these locations, we can attempt to blend in and relax alongside the locals.
Best Parks and Gardens for Picnic:
- Parc des Buttes Chaumont – This is our choice for a picnic in Paris. It’s huge so there’s plenty of room and there is a gorgeous waterfall and a small lake (large pond?) in the center. It is more well known but because it’s a bit away from the main sights, it’s full of locals enjoying the day.
- Parc Monceau – Situated in the 8th arrondissement, the park covers over 20 acres. This especially photogenic park was built in the 18th century and is known for it’s lovely “follies” (ornamental buildings like columns, pyramids, etc.).
- Parc de Belleville – Located in the 20th arrondissement, near Parc des Buttes Chaumont, this park is known for its great city views. With it’s perched position, you can have a more elevated picnic experience.
- Parc Floral de Paris – This public park and botanical garden is very popular but worth the trip. The sprawling manicured gardens are perfect for your afternoon activities. You might even catch a concert or event.
- Jardin Anne Frank – Quite small and bit secluded, this neighborhood spot in the 3rd arr. is great for quieter picnics or picnics with kids. There is enough room to run around and a playset for climbing on.
- Square du Vert-Galant – Jutting out into the Seine, this little corner of a park is perfect for those who want excellent views and a quieter spot. Because of its location near Notre Dame, it may be a bit busy at times. I think this is the perfect spot for a breakfast picnic. Grab your supplies the day before and hit this spot around 7 or 8 and man would you have yourself an incredible picnic in Paris. Et voila!
What to Pack: Best Cheese Shops in Paris (Fromagerie)
It’s time to start packing your picnic basket. In my mind, a Parisian picnic has three things – cheese, bread, and pastry. Yes, pastry and bread, they are different. Since the two starchier items are found literally on every corner of the City of Light, let’s begin with le fromage, the cheese.
If you’re asking me (and you’re on my blog, so aren’t you?) I say get a soft cheese, a hard cheese, and one you wouldn’t normally try. You don’t have to eat them all at the picnic but having extra cheese is rarely a problem.
Best Cheese Shops in Paris:
- Fromagerie des Buttes Chaumont – This is where we picked up our supplies. It’s right next to Parc des Buttes Chaumont. The shopkeeper was very helpful and the camembert we picked up was perfect!
- Androuet – Named for the man who invented the cheese shop in 1909, there are several locations throughout the city all offering wide selections of France’s best.
- Laurent Dubois – Laurent Dubois is a Meilleur Ouvrier de France, France’s highest designation for a cheesemonger and affineur (a person who ages/matures cheese). You know they will have some of the best selection in the country!
- Barthelemy – Run by Nicole Barthelemy, who many cheeseheads (hah!) consider to be the best! This is a classic French cheese shop experience.
- Fromagerie Chez Virginie – Exclusively making and selling raw-milk cheese this Montmartre shop ages their product in onsite cellars.
What to Pack: Best Bakeries in Paris (Boulangerie)
The French are known to have a passion for cheese but I am known to have a passion for good bread. Being (mostly) vegetarian, dining in France can be limiting but one thing I can always enjoy is the bread. I am constantly amazed at the quality you find at just your local corner shop. You likely can’t go too wrong at any bakery in Paris but here are a few known to be exceptional.
Best Bakeries in Paris (Boulangerie):
- Du Pain et des Idées – Known for their country loaves this traditional Boulanger is baking up some excellent options. If you’re feeling adventurous, try the pinwheel pastries filled with pistachio and escargot.
- Poilâne – This is one of the most well-known bakeries in Paris. With several locations, you can easily stop by for a baguette or two. I love the feel of these shops, traditional and approachable.
- Boulangerie Utopie – Owned by two friends, one a baker and one a pastry chef, who used to work at Laduree (famous macaron shop), you know this spot is turning out some special treats. You can not only find great loaves and rolls but also sandwiches and gorgeous pastry.
- Alexine – Their baguettes have competed as one of the best in the city in the “Best Baguette” competition (formally “Grand Prix de la Baguette de Traditional Française de la Ville De Paris”). Go for the baguettes.
- Chambelland – Who knew? A gluten-free bakery in France. You’d think that would be sacrilege but you’d be wrong. A lovely shop located in the 11th can supply all your gluten-free goodies.
- Mamiche – Orange blossom brioche, nuff said.
There are of course dozens more excellent bread makers out there. Stop in at any one of them and you are not likely to be disappointed.
What to Pack: Best Pastry Shops in Paris (Pâtisserie)
Often you can find pastry and bread in the same shop but we are separating them here because each deserves its own moment. Pastry making is something held very dear to the French. These are not your average deserts. Often they are very intricate creations made with specific techniques that can take years and years to master. These are little works of art.
Best Pastry Shops in Paris (Pâtisserie):
- Des Gâteaux et du Pain – This spot is known for turning out some of the best turnovers in town. You can get them in lemon, black currant, violet, or traditional apple. Just grab a few for me while you’re there.
- Yann Couvreur – A chic pastry shop with all your favorite flaky delights. If you’re lucky, grab one of the made-to-order millefeuille (layered pastry with custard), they only make 50 per day.
- Pierre Hermé – Be sure to visit one of the two flagship stores in town. This spot is a classic. You have to try the three items they are most known for; Ispahan croissant, the Infiniment Vanille shortbread tart, and melt-in-your-mouth macarons.
- Boulangerie Bo – Influenced by his time in Tokyo, pastry chef Olivier Haustraete incorporates Japanese flavors like yuzu, bean paste, sansho pepper, and roasted malt into his pastries. It’s certainly a unique take on the classics and a must-try.
- Fou de Pâtisserie – Meaning “crazy pastry” you’d be crazy not to try whatever is on offer here. Their case is a constantly rotating collection of treats made with seasonal ingredients. You can sample just about every french pastry there is, right here in one place.
- Blé Sucré – Excellent without being overly ornamental, the pastries at Blé Sucré are the ideal french pastry to me. Most known for their millefeuilles and iced madeleines, their croissants are almost among the best in the city.
Again, there is no way for me to list every option and I’m sure I missed your favorite spot but these are delicious places to start. What’s a trip to Paris without at least a pastry a day, right?
Tips for the Perfect Picnic
You’ve spent the morning shop-hopping and your bag is full of the finest cheese, bread, and sweets Paris has to offer. It’s time to put some finishing touches on the outing. Here are a few helpful hints when planning your picnic in Paris.
- Stop at the nearest grocery store for the rest of your items. Whether you need some cured meats, fruit, veg, you’ll find affordable options to round out your picnic selection.
- Before you pack that bottle of Bordeaux or champagne, be sure to look up the local laws around glass bottles and alcohol in public. Generally, glass containers of any kind are a no-no in public places. As far as booze goes, each arrondissement makes its own rules around drinking in public. If you keep things discreet you can likely get away with a bit of imbibing. Note that around almost all the major tourist sites (Eiffel Tower, Champs-Elysees, etc.) alcohol is forbidden.
- Ask for a recommendation! If you are staying at an AirBnB then you have the perfect opportunity to hit the lesser-known places around Paris. Be the envy of Instagram at an uncrowded cafe or secret picnic spot!
- Don’t forget to leave your picnic spot as you found it (or better!). Throw away all trash when you leave. If you can’t find a trash can, remember that you brought it all in and you can certainly bring it right back out until you can dispose of any leftovers properly.
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It is possible to create that idyllic ‘Picnic in Paris’ moment you are after. Whether it’s to celebrate an occasion, pop the question or just enjoy a sunny day you’ll be in good company enjoying this gorgeous city and all the treats, eats, and sights it has to offer. Make a day of it shopping around town and bon appetit!
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